Napoli, oh me, oh my.

Napoli has come and gone, and while we were not blown away with the city itself -unless of course you count the literal trash-filled wind storms- it has been a lot of fun and we've met some interesting people, mostly Australian.

I'll start with the city. It feels like a hybrid of NY and Madrid, although we've been told Mumbai and Madrid is probably more accurate. It is busy, densely populated, moped crazed and pretty dirty. I am not exagerrating when I say the drivers are absolutely terrifying and every walk feels like being on a date with danger. We're told there is a very corrupt side to Napoli, but we have found the people to be very nice and besides, we have focused most of our energy on pizza. Although I've been warned countless times that Italian men will try and grab my bum, it has yet to happen, and while I'm not exactly complaining, I am starting to feel a little left out.

Our hostel is great! It's run by an Australian woman who has a live-in cat, Simon, and two dogs. It took a while for Simon to warm to me but today he sought refuge from the vacuum cleaner and sat on my bed for 10 minutes. Sorry to brag, but I'm feeling pretty special. All of the other guests are Australian or French and we had one fun night out with the Australians who took us to a bar that doubles as a book store during the day. No one drinks IN the bars here, they just take their drinks into the alley, talk and dodge cars. Very fun.

We went to the Archeological Museum on Saturday, and while the building itself is in pretty terrible condition, the Pompeian artifacts are amazing and we had a great time. Since admission was free, we splurged and got an entertaining albeit inaccurate audioguide. I think we both appreciated the relaxed approach to the museum, which went well with the humorous, somewhat raunchy roman art and sculpture. I won't elaborate too much, but we were not aware of the "Secret Room" in the museum that consists of artwork taken from Pompeian brothels, and were happy to discover it on the way out as it made for a humorous exit.

We took a bus up to Mt. Vesuvius on Sunday and then did the short hike around the crater. It was harder than we thought it would be but worth it. The view of the city below was quite nice, despite the clouds and a bit of rain. Our bus driver was late to pick us up (and also illegaly smoked in the bus, yuck) so we were not able to explore the Pompeian ruins on the way back.

We went back today and had the best time, despite horrible weather and a curse that left me partially eyelashless. It was extremely hot yesterday and seemed like it would be today, so we took all of our laundry to be washed, including our jackets. We had mild weather for most of the day, except the wind which caused multiple flashings on my part and ash to fly into our eyes. I'm pretty sure I picked up an ancient Roman curse because after we left the Temple of Apollo, a huge chunk of ash managed to get through my glasses and inside my eyelid. I washed my eye out with water only to discover I had rubbed off half of the eyelashes on my left eye. Spooky and uncomfortable- I swear I now feel an occasional draught blow through the empty spaces.

We realized the audio guide was complete crap soon after we started walking through the city and were lucky enough to meet up with a wild dog who would not leave our sides and ended up leading us to some interesting sites. We named her Regina Latrat and she followed us the entire time, even after it started pouring rain and we got lost in the vineyards. I was sad to leave her behind at the end of the day. We saw another wild dog on the way out and I was strangely pleased to realize that not only do wild dogs inhabit this amazing archeological site, but also take advantage of Roman engineering as our guide dog regularly stopped at the fountains were Pompeians would have gathered water as well. We had to race to the exit in order to turn in our audioguides by 7pm, but that doesn't mean there wasn't time to stop and help a docent practice English questions such as "Is she your girlfriend?" and "Are we alone?"

The rain got progressively worse on the walk from the train station to our hostel, and the cheap umbrella I bought in Barcelona basically folded in on itself. I can only imagine how we looked, a hooded Jack taking super long strides to avoid the puddles while I practically did a crab shuffle to keep up, using one hand to hold down the excess fabric of my dress and the other to battle with the world's worst umbrella. We grabbed a pizza each, made it back to the hostel, drank homemade wine one of the French tourists brought, and well, here I am. I'm going to trap Simon in our room and call it a night. Our next stop is Rome, so we'll update then.

Love,
Cyn